full transcript

From the Ted Talk by Nick Pizzo: The physics of surfing

Unscramble the Blue Letters

And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean weavs represent a transfer of enegry. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are aectd upon by gravity, which tries to rtesore the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their negrhiobs through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more lmiteid than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower soleofar constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the sfcruae. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will rcfaret the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they aarocpph.

Open Cloze

And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean _____ represent a transfer of ______. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are _____ upon by gravity, which tries to _______ the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their _________ through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more _______ than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower ________ constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the _______. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will _______ the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they ________.

Solution

  1. approach
  2. surface
  3. restore
  4. energy
  5. limited
  6. neighbors
  7. seafloor
  8. refract
  9. waves
  10. acted

Original Text

And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean waves represent a transfer of energy. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are acted upon by gravity, which tries to restore the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their neighbors through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more limited than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower seafloor constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the surface. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will refract the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they approach.

Frequently Occurring Word Combinations

ngrams of length 2

collocation frequency
wave energy 2

Important Words

  1. accelerates
  2. acted
  3. approach
  4. blowing
  5. concentrating
  6. constrains
  7. deviations
  8. energy
  9. flat
  10. gravity
  11. growth
  12. induced
  13. leading
  14. limited
  15. motion
  16. move
  17. neighbors
  18. occur
  19. ocean
  20. original
  21. parallel
  22. particles
  23. perfect
  24. physics
  25. pressure
  26. propagates
  27. pull
  28. push
  29. refract
  30. region
  31. represent
  32. restore
  33. ripples
  34. sea
  35. seafloor
  36. shallower
  37. shore
  38. shoreline
  39. smooth
  40. state
  41. surface
  42. topography
  43. transfer
  44. unison
  45. waiting
  46. water
  47. wave
  48. waves
  49. wind