full transcript
From the Ted Talk by Nick Pizzo: The physics of surfing
Unscramble the Blue Letters
And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean weavs represent a transfer of enegry. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are aectd upon by gravity, which tries to rtesore the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their negrhiobs through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more lmiteid than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower soleofar constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the sfcruae. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will rcfaret the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they aarocpph.
Open Cloze
And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean _____ represent a transfer of ______. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are _____ upon by gravity, which tries to _______ the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their _________ through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more _______ than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower ________ constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the _______. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will _______ the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they ________.
Solution
- approach
- surface
- restore
- energy
- limited
- neighbors
- seafloor
- refract
- waves
- acted
Original Text
And what exactly are you waiting for? The perfect wave, of course. Like other waves in physics, ocean waves represent a transfer of energy. Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves. These deviations from the flat surface are acted upon by gravity, which tries to restore the surface to its original flat state. As the waves then move through the water, particles push and pull on their neighbors through the wave induced pressure, and this motion propagates energy through the water in unison with the wave motion. The motion of these particles is much more limited than the overall motion of the waves. Near the shore, the shallower seafloor constrains the motion of the waves to occur in a more limited region than out at sea, concentrating the wave energy near the surface. If the topography of the shoreline is even and smooth, this will refract the waves to become more parallel to the shore as they approach.
Frequently Occurring Word Combinations
ngrams of length 2
collocation |
frequency |
wave energy |
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Important Words
- accelerates
- acted
- approach
- blowing
- concentrating
- constrains
- deviations
- energy
- flat
- gravity
- growth
- induced
- leading
- limited
- motion
- move
- neighbors
- occur
- ocean
- original
- parallel
- particles
- perfect
- physics
- pressure
- propagates
- pull
- push
- refract
- region
- represent
- restore
- ripples
- sea
- seafloor
- shallower
- shore
- shoreline
- smooth
- state
- surface
- topography
- transfer
- unison
- waiting
- water
- wave
- waves
- wind